Reconnect with Mother Nature

From its 300kms of pristine beaches to the World Heritage-listed rainforests of the hinterland, it’s easy to see why Northern Rivers NSW was the birthplace of Australia’s environmental movement.

Some 20 million years ago, the Mt Warning volcano rose high above the coastal plains, trapping moisture-laden air and spreading its rich volcanic soil. In these perfect conditions, a vast rainforest grew in wild isolation until the first white settlers arrived just 200 years ago.

It didn’t take long for these timber cutters to decimate the low-lying rainforests known as The Big Scrub. In the Border Ranges and along the higher peaks, however, the wilderness survived and, in the 1960s and 70s, a different breed of pioneers set their sights on these hills, staging anti-logging protests that attracted international attention. Not only did they manage to save the rainforests of the Northern Rivers, they also generated a worldwide awareness of the need to preserve other unique places.

Thanks to the efforts of those early protestors and those who have followed in their footsteps, the Northern Rivers region now encompasses some of Australia’s most significant World Heritage-listed reserves, as well as a host of spectacular National Parks and state forests. These include the remains of the Mt Warning volcano, the Border Ranges, Nightcap National Park and the Iluka Nature Reserve on the coast, as well as the last remnants of The Big Scrub at eleven different sites.

Visitors are encouraged to experience Mother Nature’s wonders first hand at the many idyllic camping and picnic spots scattered throughout the National Parks and reserves or by following the network of bushwalking trails on anything from a ten-minute stroll to a two-day hike.

The reward for effort comes at mountain lookouts with panoramic views stretching to the coast, cascading waterfalls tumbling into crystal clear pools, misty forests of Antarctic beech trees, and the simple pleasure of being far from the madding crowd.

Arts & Crafts

The unique character of the Northern Rivers has been shaped by the artisans and craftspeople who have made their home in the region. In every major town, you’ll find excellent art galleries and even the smaller villages boast craft shops and artists’ studios where visitors are welcome.

The rivertown of Ulmarra, just out of Grafton on the banks of the Clarence, has been classified by the National Trust and has a number of excellent art galleries housed in fully restored heritage buildings. Just a few kilometres up the Pacific Highway, Maclean – known as ‘The Scottish Town in Australia’ – is also well worth a visit, particularly if you have a Celtic background.

Further north, the Paperbark Gallery at Evans Head is tucked away in the town’s industrial estate but it showcases an extensive range of quality local and Australian artworks. Justin and Vanessa Crisp who own the gallery are both well-established artists and anyone interested in marquetry and woodwork should have no trouble convincing Justin to show off his workshop next door.

Ballina Shire is the home of renowned Aboriginal artist, Albert ‘Digby’ Moran and you’ll find his work on display in many galleries like the Paperbark in Evans Head and the Waywood Gallery in Byron Bay. Kolinda Gallery in Alstonville on the Bruxner Highway between Ballina and Lismore and the Thursday Plantation just north of Ballina, which has a brilliant outdoor sculpture display, should also be added to your list.

For antique lovers, Bangalow near Byron Bay is not to be missed. More than half a dozen excellent antique and craft outlets line the picturesque main street, jam-packed with quality pieces.

In terms of regional galleries, it’s impossible to pick a winner between Tweed River at Murwillumbah, Grafton and Lismore, so you might just have to try them all.

Similarly, villages like Uki, Kyogle, Stokers Siding and Chillingham in the Tweed Valley all feature local crafts such as pottery, sculpture, woodwork, jewellery and paintings. The Griffith Furniture Factory and Art Gallery (also known as the Tree Tops Environment Centre) at Condong will fascinate both woodworkers and artlovers, while the counter-cultural Nimbin Museum near Lismore will take you back to the Age of Aquarius.

Weekend markets

The Northern Rivers is the birthplace of the weekend market culture, which originated from The Channon Country Market, just out of Lismore, some 20-odd years ago.

These days, country markets are held in various towns and villages every weekend, with artists, craftspeople, woodworkers, blacksmiths, potters, horticulturists, fruit and vegie vendors, pizza makers, cookie bakers, buskers, clowns, palm readers, psychics, astrologers, jewellers and second-hand dealers all vying for the attention of locals and visitors.

There’s always plenty of entertainment, too – and not just at the weekend markets. The performing arts flourish in the Northern Rivers and local theatre and dance troupes have achieved national recognition for their world-class productions and innovative new works.

Village life

One of the real highlights of exploring the Northern Rivers is discovering all the quaint and quirky villages that are so much a part of the region’s character.

Travelling along the Tweed coast, you’ll find a string of holiday villages like Kingscliff, Pottsville and Cabarita lining miles of deserted beaches. Further south, you can still find untouched seaside hideaways like Wooli, Sandon, Brooms Head, Iluka, and Evans Head, and at Yamba, you’ll find one of Australia’s most awarded caravan parks – the Blue Dolphin Holiday Resort – as well as a range of great restaurants and clubs.

Driving the inland roads, you’ll feel like you’re tootling around the English countryside as you explore tiny villages like Clunes, Eltham, Bexhill and Dunoon, or you can sample the truly eccentric at towns like Nimbin. Around the base of Mt Warning, arts and crafts thrive in towns like Uki and Stoker’s Siding or you can capture the rural magic, heading up into the mountains to Crystal Creek.

Country pubs are always a great excuse to stop. At places like Rappville, The Channon, Bangalow and Brunswick, you’ll really get into the local lifestyle, while almost every township has it’s share of great little cafes.

Regional cuisine

With so much fresh local produce available, eating your way around the countryside is a popular pastime in the Northern Rivers.

A number of outlets have been set up to showcase local cuisine, such as the Macadamia Castle at Knockrow just north of Ballina, where you can sample macadamias plain, roasted, salted, honey-coated, chocolate-covered and just about any other way you like ‘em.

At Tropical Fruit World in the Tweed Valley, you can try a range of exotic produce that you won’t find in your normal greengrocers – like chocolate pudding fruit, jak fruit, casimoras, carambolas and cactus fruit. You can also see how all these fruits are grown on a tour of the property and, whatever you do, don’t leave without trying their ice-cream.

As you drive around the hills and ridges, particularly around Lismore, you’ll notice all the lush coffee plantations. Serious caffeine addicts should stop at Clunes for the unique ‘coffee tasting’ ceremony, where their extra-strong espresso will soon sort out the men from the boys, or head out to Zentveldts at Newrybar where you can sample the award-winning blends that may soon be featured on Starbucks menus in Australia. In the Tweed region, you can visit the Madura Tea estates and sample the brew preferred by the NSW Government offices.

For fresh seafood straight from the trawler you can pretty much try any coastal town. The co-op culture is alive and well at Yamba, Iluka, Maclean, Evans Head, Ballina and Tweed Heads.

Among the ‘seachangers’ who have recently settled in the Northern Rivers are a host of award-winning chefs whose sophisticated cafes and restaurants attract rave reviews from the most respected food guides. ‘Eat Streets’ have developed along beachfront esplanades and in country towns where you can easily while away the afternoon or evening sampling unique regional cuisine and Australia’s best wines.

All in a day’s drive

For motorists, Northern Rivers NSW offers the ultimate touring holiday experience. Turn off the multi-lane Pacific Highway and follow country roads and rural lanes to spectacular mountain lookouts and waterfalls, rolling green hills lined with lush plantations or along endless stretches of deserted beaches.

Travelling south

• From Brisbane, take the Pacific Highway to Tweed Heads and explore the quaint craft villages of the Tweed Valley enroute to Mt Warning and the World Heritage-listed rainforests of the Border Ranges and Nightcap National Parks. Alternatively, skirt the Tweed Coast to discover a string of oceanfront holiday hideaways like Kingscliff, Cabarita, Hastings Point and Pottsville.

• Follow the Mt Lindsay Highway into the heart of the Northern Rivers hinterland and discover the spectacular wilderness areas of Toonumbar, Koreelah, Richmond Range and Tooloom.

• Travelling via Beaudesert, discover one of the world’s most picturesque rural drives through the rainforest and over gently rolling hills along the Lions Road to Kyogle, then pick up the Summerland Way to explore the Richmond and Clarence Valleys.

Travelling north:

• Take the Pacific Highway to the historic river city of Grafton which is transformed into an artist’s palate when the jacarandas flower each Spring. Follow the coast roads to Yamba and Iluka at the mouth of the Clarence River and on to Evans Head, Ballina, Byron Bay and the Tweed Coast.

• From Grafton, the quiet Summerland Way to Casino and Kyogle is an excellent alternative to the busy Pacific Highway – particularly in peak holiday times – crossing the border into Queensland via the Lions Road.

Travelling east:

• Turn off the New England Highway at Glen Innes to discover the magical misty world of the Gibraltar Range and Washpool National Parks as you follow the Gwydir Highway to Grafton, or take the Bruxner Highway from historic Tenterfield to reach Casino, Lismore and Byron Bay.

Dropping a line

They don’t call this region ‘Northern Rivers’ for nothing! Between the Queensland border at Tweed Heads down to Yuraygir National Park south of Grafton, four major rivers empty into the Pacific Ocean and the hinterland is criss-crossed with a network of tributaries.

Needless to say, fishing is a major drawcard throughout the region. Deep sea, beach and estuary fishing is the choice du jour in towns like Wooli, Yamba, Iluka, Evans Head, Ballina, Brunswick and Tweed Heads. Everything you need from hooks and lines through to tinnies and ocean-going charters are available for hire or sale.

Inland, you can virtually pull up by the side of the road and drop a line wherever you see good water. The Tweed, Richmond, Evans and Clarence Rivers are the main thoroughfares but tributaries and smaller waterways like the Rous, Oxley, Mann and Nymboida, plus the hundreds of smaller creeks will bring their own rewards.

For stillwater shore or boat fishing, try Clarrie Hall Dam (electric motors only), just west of Uki or Toonumbar Dam, west of Kyogle, which has an excellent camping area and boat ramp and plenty of bass, thanks to a stocking program by the local fishing club.

Similarly, Wave Hill Station has facilities for camping and fishing (not to mention, swimming, horseriding, 4WD-ing, bushwalking and canoeing) in the spectacular Clarence River Gorge country, where the waterfalls and rapids thunder through a breathtaking rock canyon.

NB. Fishing licences are required for recreational angling in NSW. Licences are available at local bait shops or inquire at the Visitor Information Centres.

Tee-time

If you can manage to tuck the clubs away somewhere, you’ll find plenty of picturesque country courses to test out your golf swing.

They range from serious challenges like Terranora just west of Tweed Heads, Ocean Shores north of Brunswick and the championship course at Grafton, through to relaxing manicured fairways like Ballina, nine-hole public courses like Teven Valley and the hobby course smack bang in the middle of Grafton Racetrack.

Kyogle Shire, about 20 minutes drive from Casino, also boasts more than its fair share of courses, including Kyogle, Woodenbong, Tabulam, Bonalbo and Toonumbar, and you can find coastal fairways at Yamba, Iluka, Maclean, Lawrence and Coutts Crossing.

Whether you’re into adrenalin-pumping thrills and spills or the more sedate excitement of bike riding and bushwalking, the Northern Rivers region has plenty of opportunities to get the pulse racing.

Learn to surf, sail or kiteboard. Get an aerial view of the rural splendour in a microlight, glider or hang-glider. Roar around the countryside on the back of a Harley Davidson or cycle along the coastline on a bike built for two.

Heading offshore, you can challenge the monsters of the deep on fishing charters, go whale-watching (June to November), sea-kayak with dolphins or explore the southern-most outcrops of the Great Barrier Reef, scuba diving and snorkelling in the Solitary Islands Marine Park.

Travelling inland, you can give the 4WD a workout (or the family car, for that matter) on rainforest drives in the Border Ranges National Park and the Whian Whian State Forest.

Things to see and do

(as suggested  by regional Tourist Information Centres)

• There are dozens of parks, nature reserves, rainforest remnants dedicated to the preservation of our unique natural heritage
• Saddle up on a working cattle property in the Tweed, explore the high country on horseback
• Catch supper in a well-stocked lake
• Wake to the call of the whipbirds, the tinkle of a rainforest stream and a gourmet breakfast on the balcony of a luxurious rainforest retreat
• Take an off-road safari into the wilderness of the Clarence Gorge or the Border Ranges, bathe in a secluded water hole and bed down under a billion stars
• Discover arts and crafts in Alstonville, Lismore, Stokers Siding, or Mullumbimby, or antique treasures and bric-a-brac in Bangalow, Ulmarra or Uki
• Pan for gold in historic Jackadgery or bargain for organic fruit at a colourful country market
• Cruise the hills on a Harley or discover the spirit of Aquarius in Nimbin
• Surf with the dolphins around the pointbreaks of Angourie, Lennox Head, Wategos or Fingal
• Boogie board at Bogangar, walk the plank at Wategos, sail a catamaran on Lake Ainsworth
• Soar on a hang glider above Byron Bay or Lennox Head
• Plunge into the Blue Pools of Angourie, learn to scuba dive and explore the underwater delights of Julian Rocks or Wooli's marine reserves
• Pitch a tent by a crystal stream in the Yuraygir and stroll through the rainforest
• Cruise the historic Richmond River or picnic on the shores of the Broadwater or the Brunswick.
• Paddle a canoe on the calm waters of secluded Clarrie Hall Dam
• Get the adrenaline pumping in the wild whitewater of the upper Clarence or Nymboida
• Learn to sailboard on Terranora, Cabarita or Wooloweyah Lake
• The rivers, lakes and estuaries of the region are a treat! Bag bream, flathead or monster jewies in the Brunswick, battle the bass in Clarrie Hall Dam or snag a snapper at Iluka
• Discover the majesty of Minyon Falls, the pure waters of the Wooli Wooli and Sandon Rivers... shower under a mountain cascade in the Border Ranges or thrill to the rainforest wonders of Terania Creek
• Visit the unique Black Rocks in Bundjalung National Park near Evans Head
• Taste the flavours of the local seafood in Yamba and Ballina.
• Scoot your boots at a bush dance or enjoy a classical piano recital in a picturesque village hall

Easy access

The Northern Rivers region encompasses the far north east of NSW and the local government areas of Tweed Shire, Kyogle, Byron Bay, Lismore, Ballina, Richmond Valley, Copmanhurst, Maclean, Grafton City and Pristine Waters.

By road:
Access is via the Pacific Highway along the coast from Sydney or Brisbane or the New England Highway, taking the Gwydir Highway turn-off at Glen Innes or the Bruxner Highway turn-off at Tenterfield. From Brisbane, the region can also be reached via the Mt Lindsay Highway to Beaudesert and over the border via the Lions Road to Kyogle and Casino.

Distances (via the most direct route)	from Sydney	from Brisbane
Grafton	620km	320km
Ballina	769km	205km
Lismore	780km	225km
Casino	747km	233km
Kyogle	850km	200km
Byron Bay	790km	202km
Tweed Heads	922km	105km

By air:
Northern Rivers is serviced by Qantaslink and Rex, with airports in Grafton, Lismore and Ballina. Just outside the region, the Gold Coast Airport (north) and Coffs Harbour Airport (south) are also convenient gateways. Rental cars are available at the airports and in all major towns.

By rail or bus:
The CountryLink XPT travels from Sydney daily, stopping at Grafton, Casino, Kyogle, Lismore, Byron Bay, Mullumbimby and Murwillumbah. A number of coach companies provide comfortable, economical transport into and around the region.

 

Follow the ‘i’

The region’s excellent network of Visitor Information Centres can provide detailed brochures, maps, accommodation bookings and local knowledge. You can also find out more about each centre on their local websites.

Ballina Visitor Information Centre
Cnr River St & Las Balsas Plaza
Ballina   NSW   2478
Ph: 02-6686 3484
Fax: 02-6686 0136
Email: balinfo@ballina.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.discoverballina.com

Byron Visitor Information Centre
80 Jonson Street
Byron Bay   NSW   2481
Ph: 02-6680 8558
Fax: 02-6685 5351
Email: reservations@visitbyronbay.com
Website: www.visitbyronbay.com

Casino Visitor Information Centre
Richmond & Centre Streets
Casino   NSW   2470
Ph: 02-6662 3566
Fax: 02-6662 5511
Email: fnnccc@nnsw.quik.com.au
Website: www.richmondvalley.nsw.gov.au

Clarence River Visitor Information Centre
Pacific Highway
South Grafton   NSW   2460
Ph: 02-6642 4677
Fax: 02-6643 1927
Email: crta@nor.com.au
Website: www.clarencetourism.com

Kyogle Shire Council
Stratheden Street
Kyogle   NSW   2474
Ph: 02-6632 1611
Fax: 02 6632 2228
Email: council@kyogle.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.kyogleweb.com.au

Lismore Visitor Information Centre
Cnr Ballina & Molesworth Sts
Lismore   NSW   2480
Ph: 1300 369 795
Fax: 02-6626 0106
Email: tourism@lismore.nsw.gov.au
Website: www.lismore.nsw.gov.au 

Lower Clarence Visitor Information Centre
Ferry Park, Pacific Highway
Maclean   NSW   2463
Ph: 02-6645 4121
Fax: 02-6645 4484
Email: crta1@nor.com.au
Website: www.clarencetourism.com

Tweed Heads Visitor Information Centre
Wharf Street
Tweed Heads   NSW   2485
Ph: 1800 674 414
Fax: 07-5536 4204
Email:  info@tweedcoolangatta.com.au
Website: www.tweedcoolangatta.com

World Heritage Rainforest & Information Centre
Cnr Alma St & Pacific Highway
Murwillumbah   NSW   2484
Ph: 1800 674 414
Fax: 02-6672 5948
Email:  info@tweedcoolangatta.com.au
Website: www.tweedcoolangatta.com.au

Kingscliff Visitor Information Centre
Marine Parade Kingscliff, NSW 2487
Toll Free: 1800 674 414
Telephone: 02 - 6674 2528
Fax: 02 - 6674 2537

Nimbin Visitors Centre
80 Cullen Street Nimbin, NSW 2480
02 6689 1222

Brunswick Heads Visitors Centre
7 Park Street
Brunswick Heads NSW 2483
02 66851003